The genesis!

The last few months have passed... in a general atmosphere of gloom, tinged with lockdowns and travel restrictions of a few kilometers... In all of this, bike rides and drinks with friends haven't been easy... it's difficult to plan anything in this uncertain climate...
But now, for the past few weeks, it seems we have a period of respite between two virulent waves, so we decide to seize our chance!

The to-do list is long!
Between the desire to chase new mountain passes for the challenge and the desire to discover new roads and new places for escape, above all we have a great desire for freedom and adventure!
What better way to do that than a little bikepacking trip with the girls?

A first for us…
The prospect of traveling from point A to point B, with our panniers completely self-sufficient, stopping wherever we want, eating and sleeping wherever we feel like it, without any pressure whatsoever, what could be better to feel free again!

Come on !
The Tour du Mont Blanc is definitely on the "to do" list, you have to start somewhere and it seems we're going to climb some incredible and famous mountain passes! Flore is tackling it, using Openrunner she's drawing up a first draft of the route starting from Annecy.

The main mountain passes to be crossed are known by name, they are famous, traversed by the Tour de France riders for the most part. Over coffee, we fine-tune the plan. We have four days to cover 450km and 9750m of elevation gain. We brainstorm several segments, agreeing on the best places to sleep and eat…

We don't really know, it's a bit new for us... we're just going by feel, at worst it's not a big deal, we'll do better next time! Many people look at us with wide eyes, warning us it's going to be tough. We, however, feel truly capable, but their warnings about the difficulties of the route still make us a little afraid… what if it's too long, what if there's too much elevation gain? We hesitate, we tweak the routes, we exchange ideas with others about the must-see itineraries and mountain passes…

Finally, a week before, everything is arranged, we just pray to the weather gods to give us the window of sunshine that will allow us to leave and fully enjoy our adventure! No more apprehension, just I can't wait to finally leave and experience this incredible sporting and human adventure!

Day 1 - Friday, July 9

We met at 8:30 am in Brumes for a quick coffee and to check what lay ahead. Karine, a brigadier, came to encourage us, and Julien, the manager of Brumes, is also supporting us! Yes, it's not every day that two female cyclists set off from his café for such a long, self-supported ride.

9am, we're off! Excited and nervous, we set off on our adventure with D+! Today, 110km and 2260m of elevation gain. : The Col de la Forclaz de Queige, Col du Méraillet and Cormet de Roseland await us.

We start by cycling along Lake Annecy, enjoying its gentle morning air. There aren't many people around, which is lovely. There's already plenty of chatting and laughter. We know this cycle path well, so it's a smooth ride. Reaching the end of the lake, we continue on to Ugine. Being in the Ugine industrial zone isn't exactly glamorous, so we hurry and quickly gain altitude on the Col de la Forclaz de Queige. Six kilometers at an average gradient of 8%, cool in the forest, and there we are, in front of the sign to stick on our first Matchy sticker.We're having a blast with the sticker game! We're chatting with the only inhabitant of this mountain pass, who's out mushroom hunting. He's a little disappointed with his haul but delighted to see us.

Heading towards Beaufort and its long, gentle uphill slopes. We're stuck with our panniers and a headwind. We'd already done this section 15 days ago during the Beaufortain weekend with the brigadières. It seemed much easier going then… We also had panniers then, but perhaps less loaded.

Arriving in Beaufort, we made our usual stop at Le Bus Givré. The waitress recognized us and this time asked what kind of adventure we were embarking on. We were quickly served a super bowl and artisanal ice cream (the best in the world, according to our waitress).

We set off again for the climb up the Col du Méraillet: 12 km and an average gradient of 7%. It's a pleasant ride through this fir forest with a superb view of Beaufort. The long straight sections between the hairpin bends allow us to fully admire the view and glimpse the alpine peaks.

Once at the Col du Méraillet, we made a short detour to the Roseland dam to admire its height and take lots of photos of the turquoise water illuminated by the sun. It was magnificent.

There are 8km left to reach the summit of the Cormet at 1967m altitude. But the Refuge du Plan de la Laie is calling our name for a snack break! Yes, it's the last place to eat before reaching the summit and descending to Bourg Saint Maurice for the night. So we're taking our time.

After this short snack break, we finished the remaining 3 km to the summit. It wasn't cold, but there was a slight mountain breeze, and the descent was likely to be chilly. So we dressed warmly and headed down into the unknown! Yes, because from this summit, the adventure of discovery began, as neither of us had ever gone further by bike.

The descent is incredible, 20km of pure bliss: at first, beautiful straightaways offer stunning views of the surrounding wild peaks. Eventually, you reach the forest where a series of tight switchbacks unfolds. It's a blast, the kind of riding we love.

Once at the bottom, we drove through Bourg-Saint-Maurice to reach the guesthouse in Séez: Alps Haven. Of course, it's in a dead end at the far end of the village with a 13% gradient. But it's well worth the effort to arrive at this charming guesthouse with a jacuzzi prepared by the very welcoming English hosts. A quick dip in the 38°C water, a homemade pizza, a stretching session, and that was it, goodnight!

Day 2 - Saturday, July 10

Wake-up call at 7:30 am! We have a great breakfast. The English are really good at savory and hearty breakfasts. Everything we need to start this new day! On the agenda: 87 km and 2276 m of elevation gain, including the Petit Saint Bernard pass, the San Carlo pass, and the Balcons de Cerellaz.

The Little St. Bernard Pass is long (26.5 km) but manageable (5% average gradient). We take the Tour de France route, which passes through Montvalezan at an average gradient of 9% for 6 km. Seeing all the luxury homes, we feel like Stéphane Plaza. We cross the pretty village of Le Châtelard before ending up on a road that unfurls a pink carpet before us, La Rosière, before joining the main road.The view is perfect for photos!

So we continue on to the La Rosière resort and as soon as we leave the village we take a right turn and there, a whole new world, we've entered the " Stargate, The Gate of the Stars "to find ourselves in an alpine valley. Even though we pass through time portals, Jean-Michel, in his Ardèche cycling jersey, is always right behind us, changing worlds with us. He's not going fast, but since we keep stopping to take photos, he catches up and finally finishes the climb with us."

We were absolutely blown away by this mountain pass, which we'd seen so much on TV and while planning this trip. After poring over countless photos, there we were, standing in front of the hospice, on the border between France and Italy. The pass offers, among other things, a view of the Italian side of Mont Blanc. Finally, the famous Mont Blanc that we were circling! We'd been wondering when we'd actually see it. : We went around, but were we really going to see it?

We stick the sticker on the sign and take the opportunity to play tourist at the top before heading back down on a pleasant road with varied bends that provide driving pleasure.

The only negative point about this mountain pass between La Rosière and La Thuile, where we will stop for lunch, is that it is full of electrical cables.

In La Thuile, the first Italian restaurant we go to means pizza. Fanny takes the opportunity to practice her Italian and orders us the best pizzas we'd hoped for after that long climb. We also take the chance to learn a little bit of history: why St. Bernard? Who is that statue at the top of the pass we just crossed? We leave a little wiser!

We devoured our pizzas before setting off again for the Colle San Carlo: 6 km at an average gradient of 8% in full sun. This pass is magnificent! It starts with two steep sections at 14% as you leave La Thuile. Then it continues with switchbacks that offer glimpses of Mont Blanc, before entering a fir forest once more. We'll remember that the summit was the place to be on Saturday, July 10th, as it was packed with cars, leaving little room to reach the sign and stick our sticker.

We descend for 10 kilometers at an average gradient of 10%. We remark that we were actually glad we'd climbed the other way. And here we are at the least enjoyable part of the day: the Aosta Valley and a headwind, again! We're now on a major valley highway, with cars whizzing by at 80 km/h… not the most pleasant experience. The plan is to avoid it as much as possible. We only spend 11 km on it, taking turns before exiting at Avise.

We headed towards the Cerellaz balconies. We hadn't been too worried about this last challenge. We then embarked on a 6 km climb at a 12% gradient against the cliff face. It was hot, but we caught a glimpse of Mont Blanc for the last time that day and finally arrived in Cerellaz. I waited for Fanny in the shade, and after 3 minutes of catching my breath, I noticed a local woman staring at me, sitting in front of her house with her newspaper. I said to her, Ciao It didn't take much for her to start speaking to me in Italian. I pretended not to understand anything she was saying, but she continued and repeated a thousand times, Bravo, bravo… Fanny arrived breathless, and the woman continued talking to her. Fanny tried to answer her in Italian between breaths. The woman was delighted; her day had been made up.It must be said that the village is truly deserted. Behind it, a string of small villages allows us to enjoy an incredible view of the Aosta Valley and the surrounding mountains.

We then gently descend back towards Aosta where we will sleep in a somewhat shabby hotel but with very friendly owners.

We lazed around for a good hour before heading back into town to enjoy some Italian pasta and gelato! Yes, that's Italy for you. We discovered a small, historic, and lively city center. They are of the evening The Italians! They look at us in surprise : It's not every day you see two women strolling down the street in their shorts, sporting deep cycling tan lines and secondhand socks! Never mind the style, the important thing is the upcycling! !

We return to the hotel, do a few stretches and goodnight!

Day 3 Sunday, July 11

Today is the biggest day, 138 km and 3470 m of elevation gain.

So we're leaving earlier than usual. Wake-up call at 6:30 for a 7:30 departure.

Breakfast wasn't very substantial; it was a buffet, but many items were individually wrapped, very sweet biscuits. We tried to stick with savory options, so we had eggs and sliced ​​bread. We had to finish packing our panniers and then set off again towards the Grand St Bernard Pass, the Petite Forclaz, the Col de la Forclaz (Martigny), and finally the Col des Montets.

The Great St. Bernard Pass isn't very interesting at first. We're still in the hills above Aosta, the houses are lined up one after another, and Stéphane Plaza would have a bit of work to do around here...

After just 10 km, a break is necessary to stretch. Indeed, some aches and pains remain intense, especially if you weren't diligent with your stretching the day before. So, we take 20 minutes in a tunnel to wake up our bodies and release those unpleasant tensions.

Ready to set off again, we continue along the long, straight stretches of the main road before reaching the village of San Leonardo, where we finally turn right onto the road to the pass. Indeed, if you continue left after San Leonardo, you cross the border via a large tunnel that passes under the Great St. Bernard Pass.

For our part, we'll opt for this small road with its smooth tarmac and shade. We'll enjoy beautiful hairpin bends, small villages, and high-quality road maintenance. Fanny assures me that the Swiss are going the extra mile to help the Italians maintain the mountain pass road. It's so iconic that it needs to be properly maintained! » So, we're expecting Switzerland to have a perfect road, as smooth as a billiard table. We'll see in 17 km.

The famous tunnel passes by us one last time, and as soon as we leave it behind, we can see the next series of switchbacks that await us. It's vast, impressive; we can't wait to climb higher and higher to admire each turn. Higher up, we can see the Casa per ferie Don Angelo Carioni (a hotel and restaurant). It has the charm of a Saint Bernard hospice. Once we reach this house, we enter another mountain cirque, with rocks and cliffs all sculpted and arranged with elegance and immensity.We all feel so small!

We passed through a small, open stone tunnel before rounding the final bend and crossing the finish line of the pass. A small, landscaped lake greeted us. It was crowded, especially with motorcyclists who had been yelling in our ears for a good part of the climb. We followed the lake and reached the hospice. We took our last photos and stuck on our sticker: a must on this pass on the Italian/Swiss border, a pass we had been waiting for as long as the Little St. Bernard Pass.

We begin the descent, which for the first 6 kilometers is superb, except for the tarmac, which, unfortunately, is not at all maintained by the Swiss. But once past the 6 km mark, we reach the exit of the large tunnel. Beyond that, the descent is rather uninteresting, as it plunges into half-open tunnels where we can glimpse the Toules dam. The road is rather unnerving with the cars speeding by. This wide national highway continues for several kilometers with a headwind again. We think it's lunchtime, but it's Sunday and not everything is open. We are saved by Le Catogne. !

We don't linger too long because we've already covered 67 km and there are still 72 km to go! So we set off again on this uninteresting main road, still battling a headwind. Once again, just like in the Aosta Valley, we want to get off it as quickly as possible. We then head towards Martigny-Combe to tackle a series of steep 14% gradients over 3 km. This is the Petite Forclaz. Finally, we rejoin the main road for the Col de la Forclaz (Martigny). There's not much to see in this 7 km climb, which is fairly easy going but squeezed between a wall and some very dangerous cars. We stick on a sticker before descending back into the valley to cross the border (Switzerland/France) one last time.

Back in France. Only the Col des Montets (8 km at 4%) remains for today. It's a rolling climb that runs alongside the tracks of the iconic Chamonix red train. Despite this, we've racked up some impressive elevation gains. Fanny felt great all day. I, on the other hand, was struggling with knee and back pain.

But that's it, we've reached the summit of the pass. Mentally, it's over! We descend gently back to Chamonix, to be as close as possible to Mont Blanc, which we've circled throughout the trip. After Chamonix, we arrive at Les Houches, a final 1.5 km climb through the forest that takes us down to Servoz. A great way to finish because the road is perfect, the hairpin bends too, and the descent is long after the 1.5 km climb we just made. Once past Servoz, we know there's nothing left before meeting up with Alice, a friend who's hosting us for the night. Thanks to her for her support and for making this trip a success. It's already 8 pm, the evening is flying by! Pizza, sharing with friends, and off to bed.

Day 4 - Monday, July 12

Today's going to be great, 83 km and 1742 m of elevation gain! The hardest part is behind us!

We're leaving at 9 a.m. this time; we have plenty of time, as we only have two mountain passes to tackle: the Col de Romme and the Col de la Colombière. We're heading out onto small roads in the Arve Valley. Thanks to Openrunner for always showing us the best sections. It's true that sticking to the main highways wasn't really the option I'd envisioned. The app showed us lots of little country roads that allowed us to avoid the traffic.On the other hand, we still haven't escaped the wind… To sum it up, during this trip, as soon as we found ourselves in a valley or on flat ground, we had a headwind… not exactly ideal for increasing our average speed. But deep down, who cares? We're here for the adventure, just the girls, more than most!

We arrive in Cluses and therefore at the foot of the Col de Romme. We immediately attack with 11% gradients. It's the beginning, we're fresh... and then after the Petite Forclaz it doesn't seem so steep ^^

This mountain pass is quiet, with no cars. We then enjoy the average 8% gradient for 9 kilometers and are impatient to reach the end of our journey.

The little village of Romme is absolutely beautiful and so peaceful. We can just picture ourselves there, taking a nap in the garden! Come on! ! We continue, no sign to stick our sticker on. We descend back to Le Reposoir and finish our last climb: the Col de la Colombière. We have 7 km at 9% left before we lose our nerve! Because this pass is the goal! After that it's flat all the way to Annecy (with a slight headwind?).

Today, the roles are reversed: I feel good, but the last 4km are tough for Fanny. Her nerves give way and the emotion is intense. I encourage him Don't cry now, you'll cry up there, don't waste your energy now "We'll stay together, we'll finish this beautiful adventure together!"

Two more kilometers, and it feels like the slope is getting steeper with these panniers… come on, hang in there, one more kilometer and finally the finish line. So many emotions! We did it :)

We treat ourselves to one last little meal at the summit before heading back down to Le Grand Bornand. The view is incredible. The bends come one after another. This descent is superb, just the way we like them. Two cyclists are drafting behind us on the way down. And when we reach the steep climb of Saint Jean de Sixt, they overtake us and congratulate us on our descent, where they didn't manage to pass us. We have We've made progress, we've gained confidence, we're happy.

The final stretch to Thones, we spot our friend Bertrand waiting to give us a ride to Alex! We feel like we're flying, satisfied with this loop we're about to complete. Last little climb of Bluffy before plunging into the lake (literally and figuratively).

This trip is over, we've gained all the strength and confidence we needed! We also soaked up as much sun as we could this rainy summer! We've certainly maintained our cyclist tan lines!

And finally, when you stop, you only have one desire: to go back!